Hello Friends Now i am teaching you about electricity friendly charger .You can Charge you smartphone just by fire not by Electricity How cool isn't it.
Just follow below step to do that
First of all we know about concept behind it
I´m using a thermoelectic module, also called peltier element, TEC or TEG. You have one hot side and one cold. The temperature difference in the module will start producing electricity. The physical concept when you use it as a generator it's called the Seebeck effect. Thermoelectic modules are mainly used for the opposite effect, the Peltier effect. Then you apply a electric load and it will force a heat transfer from one side to the other. Often used in smaller refrigerators and coolers.For more follow below link : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect
Now go ahead to made them
Step 1: Material Requirement
- 1x high temperature TEG module: TEP1-1264-1.5
- 2x voltage step-up
- 1x small heat sink. From old PC (BxWxH=60x57x36mm)
- 1x Aluminum plate: BxWxH=90x90x6mm
- 1x 5V brushless DC motor with plastic fan (could be hard to find, check this link)
- Fixation for heat sink: Aluminum bar (6x10x82mm)
- 2x M3 bolts+2nuts+2x washers for heat sink: 25mm long
- 2x M3 1mm thick metal washers
- 4x M4 bolts+8x nuts+4x washers as construction base: 70mm long
- 4x M4 1mm thick metal washers
- 4x M4 bolts: 15-20mm long
- 4x Drywall screw (35mm)
- 2x heat insulated washers: Constructed from cardboard and old plastic food turner
- 80x80x2mm corrugated cardboard (Not very good at high temperatures)
- 2x pull springs: 45mm extended
- (Optional) Components for a temperature monitor and voltage limiter.
Step 2: Construction of Base Plate
Now we need to arrange base plate as given figure show you.
This will be the "hot side". It will also act as construction base plate to fixate heat sink and some legs.
- How you construct this depends on what heat sink you are using and how you want to fixate it.
- I started to drill two 2.5mm holes to match my fixation bar. 68mm between them and the position is matched of where I want to put the heat sink. Holes are then threaded as M3.
- Drill four 3.3mm holes at the corners (5x5mm from outer edge). Use a M4 tap for threading.
- Make some nice looking finishing. I used a rough file, a fine file and two types of sand paper to gradually make it shine! You could also polish it but it would be too sensitive to have outside.
- Screw the M4 bolts through the corner holes and lock it with two nuts and one washer per bolt plus the 1mm washer on the top side. Alternative one nut per bolt is enough as long as the holes are threaded. You can also use the short 20mm bolts, depends on what you will use as heat source.
Step 3: Construction of Heat Sink
Most important is to fixate the heat sink on top of the base plate but at the same time isolate the heat. You want to keep the heat sink as cooled as possible. The best solution I could came up with was two layers of heat insulated washers. That will block the heat from reaching the heat sink through the fixating bolts. It need to handle about 200-300ºC. I created my own but it would be better with a plastic bush like this. I could not find any with high temperature limit. The heat sink needs to be under high pressure to maximize the heat transfer through the module. Maybe M4 bolts would be better to handle higher force.
- Modified (filed) aluminum bar to fit in the heat sink
- Drilled two 5mm holes (should not be in contact with bolts in order to isolate heat)
- Cut two washers (8x8x2mm) from old food turner (plastic with max temp of 220ºC)
- Cut two washers (8x8mmx0.5mm) from hard cardboard
- Drilled 3.3mm hole through plastic washers
- Drilled 4.5mm hole through cardboard washers
- Glued cardboard washers and plastic washers together (concentric holes)
- Glued plastic washers on top of aluminum bar (concentric holes)
- Put M3 bolts with metal washers through the holes (will later be screwed on top of aluminum plate)
Step 4: Assembly of Parts
- Mount TEG-module on heat sink.
- Place cardboard on heat sink and TEG-module is now temporally fixated.
- The two M3 bolts go through the aluminum bar and then through the cardboard with nuts on top.
- Mount heat sink with TEG and cardboard on base plate with two 1mm thick washers in between to separate cardboard from the "hot" base plate.
- The assembly order from top is bolt, washer, plastic washer, cardboard washer, aluminum bar, nut, 2mm cardboard, 1mm metal washer and base plate.
- Add 4x 1mm washers on the upper side of base plate to isolate cardboard from contact
Step 5: Electronics Parts
The main idea was to have a regulated output voltage to charge or power different kind of gadgets. Since the TEG-module produce very low voltage (0-5V depending on heat source) I needed a good voltage step-up and regulator.
I wanted to build everything myself and therefore created a whole different project for this since it turned out to be very useful. The voltage step up is not powerful enough so I built two of them. One will power the 3-5V fan and one will power other electronics.
Top and Bottom Side of PC Board
Step 6: Assembly of Electronics Part
The circuit boards will be placed around the motor and above the heat sink. Hopefully they will not get too warm.
- Tape the motor to avoid shortcuts and to get better grip
- Glue the cards together so that they fit around the motor
- Place them around the motor and add two pull springs to hold it together
- Glue the USB connector somewhere (I did not find a good place, had to improvise with melted plastic)
- Connect all cards together according to my layout
- Connect the PT1000 thermal sensor as close as possible to the TEG-module (cold side). I placed it beneath the upper heat sink between the heat sink and cardboard, very close to the module. Make sure it has good contact! I used super glue that can handle 180ºC.
- I advise to test all circuits before connected to the TEG-module and start heating it
Step 7: Test and See the Result
It is a bit delicate to get started. One candle for example is not enough to power the fan and soon enough the heat sink will get as warm as the bottom plate. When that happen it will produce nothing. It must be started quickly with for example four candles.
Then it produce enough power for the fan to start and can start cool off the heat sink. As long as the fan keeps running it will be enough air flow to get even higher output power, even higher fan RPM and even higher output to USB.
Great article and nice geek tips
ReplyDelete